Lima, Peru: The Ultimate Paradox
July 16th, 2007 by Helen Sarkanova
Peru is quite an extraordinary country. The Cusco region offers quite an extensive first-hand experience of the Latin American poverty. And yet, Machu Picchu – the famed ruins of an ancient city that have become the most recognizable symbol the Inca Empire, is neighbored by the luxurious Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge. Having a luxurious hotel where rates for a one night easily exceed $ 1.000 built right next to one of the greatest reminiscences of the Inca Empire, currently voted as one of the New 7 Wonders of the World, is quite disturbing. For this reason, I found my stay in a small town called Ollantaytambo at the eastern end of the Sacred Valley. Although I was quick to discover that the ‘homemade’ mushroom soup served by the one of the Ollantaytambo hostel’s kitchen was an instant Maggi, my modest room had a direct access to a terrace that offered a wonderful view of ruins of a less-known old Inca city. Unlike Machu Picchu, Ollantaytambo’s ruins are currently neighbored by run-down houses of the villagers.
Lima, Peru’s capital, was founded by a controversial chief conquistador Francisco Pizarro. While denounced for initiating heartless destruction of the Inca civilization, Pizarro is celebrated for bringing Christianity to the people of Peru. Colonial architecture is mixed with derelict buildings and flamboyant residences of the country’s few who share most of its wealth are rising into the horizon surrounded by ghetto-like images. Ever-present barbed wires encircling schools and private properties of the rich, constant honking of taxis, and bullet-proof police SUVs – all that felt quite uncomfortable at first. But I got used to it. What I found most distressing, however, were the countless crowds of children begging for money. Not just because a sight of kids deprived of decent shelter, food and education would be depressing in itself. More because it made me see how quickly you get used to that sight. For a few days, you are shocked and moved. Than, you become apathetic. And suddenly you realize that these small dirty hands pulling your trousers wherever you move genuinely annoy you.
If the aesthetic beauty of Lima is hard to appreciate, great museums, a sparkling nightlife and a notable cooking scene are the qualities that the city certainly has to offer. Along with the National Museum of Archeology, Anthropology and History, the Gold of Peru museum displaying the world’s most magnificent collection of ancient Peruvian art is an absolute must for anyone visiting the city. And so is the Miraflores District, in which tequila flows fast and bare-feet natives dance their troubles.
